Global Zone, haircuts, crazy cows, etc.

11 Mar 2009
Posted by Jordan
Jordan's picture

My new semester started out similarly to Marisa's, in that on the first day of school I was picked up by my co-teacher as usual, and was naive enough to think that the day would be without "incident." A few minutes into the drive, however, Mr. Song says, "oh, do you know about new workplace?"

Me: "No." (do I have a new office? I wonder to myself).

Mr. Song: "You are teaching at new school."

Me: "Oh."

Mr. Song then proceeds to explain to me that he had been notified of this school change just a couple hours earlier. "We will see," he says. That day I sit around at Jayang doing nothing, because my co-teacher at my new school (where I am supposed to be Monday through Wednesday now) is too busy to come pick me up. Things get somewhat sorted out by Tuesday though, and I make my way to the new school, a downtown juggernaut of 1000 students, not unlike Marisa's Seoheung... my days of teaching 6 students per class at Napo are gone forever.

My schedule at the new school is haphazard and full to overflowing... they tell me that this schedule is "temporary" though (no surprise there), and that I will be getting my "real" schedule in two weeks... we shall see. In the meantime I've been introducing myself like a broken record to class after class of hollering 1st, 2nd, and 3rd graders (that is 7th, 8th, and 9th graders).

I've been around to some of the classes twice now, but wasn't much prepared for the second encounters, since my "temporary" schedule is actually not a schedule at all, and the classes I end up teaching are rarely the ones shown there; this together with the fact that I have not been given a textbook or any materials, leads to what we in Korea call "flying by the seat of one's pants" (i.e. living). The classes themselves do have textbooks though, and sometimes I improvise from there. In one class the lesson centered around a nature photographer, with the topic being protecting nature. This particular class was what I sometimes call a "dud." Meaning that the students look at you sometimes, but rarely do anything else.

"What is this lesson about?" Nothing.

"Protecting Nature, right?" One student nods.

"Do you like nature?" Nothing.

"Do you want to protect nature?" Nothing.

"Just raise your hand if you like nature/want to protect nature." Nothing.

At this point I go a bit off the deep end, and start wildly drawing a grim Armageddon on the chalkboard: giraffes being blown up with bazookas, bulldozers flattening snowy mountains, and people with flamethrowers torching down forests. This gets the students chuckling. Pretty soon the chalkboard is nothing but smoke and flames, and a bunch of X-ed out giraffes. "Is this what you want to happen to the world?" Nothing.

Which brings me to my haircut: for $10 in Korea you don't get Great Clips--you get fanciness. I get my hair cut at Lotte Mart, because there is no reason to do anything outside of Lotte Mart--actually, it is my theory that nothing exists outside of Lotte Mart. So anyway, when you go in a woman takes your coat; next you get a glass of orange juice, which you can sip as you surf the web with one of the provided computers as you wait. When your wait is up a man with a towering hairdo of craziness invites you to sit down and be "prepared" with multiple aprons and perhaps some spray. A lady brings you The Book so you can pick out a do if you want something fancy. I just point to a man with a buzz. "Short Cut?" they ask. "Yea, short cut." This is not enough confirmation, though, so they (lady and crazy hairdo man together) flip the book and find two or three more men with "short cuts," and verify the idea with me each time. Finally we are ready to begin. I figure that the man will take the clippers, run them over my scalp, and be done with it... this is always how I've gotten buzz cuts before. But no. Instead, Hairdo starts to meticulously cut and trim. Cut and trim. A little bit of clippers now. Now back to the scissors. Now a new pair of scissors. Now cut cut. Now trim trim. And so after 20 minutes I emerge with my finely sculptured buzz. Of course then I get the hair wash and scalp massage treatment that is just part of the regular haircut here. Great Clips is kind of lame.

Which brings me back to my school: Nam Middle School, like almost every other school in Korea, as far as we can tell, has been outfitted over the winter break with a shnazzy new English room; "Welcome to Global Zone" is printed over the door in large letters. The room is large and very well outfitted, with a ginormous touch screen television, large sliding whiteboards, new computers, and clusters of tables arranged in a "we're here to be casual and have fun but also to learn about Global Zone" sort of way. Light is good, and posters around the perimeter sport catchy slogans and photos of English-speaking places, like Australia, Britain... and France. My office is actually in this room, where I sit alone and ponder my life. The provided computer, unlike my 10-year-old one at Jayang, is new and fast, and sports a 22-inch LCD monitor. So while the move from Napo is painful for the most part, my new school is not entirely without its upside.

Which brings me to the conversation class I had with the English teachers (5 of them here, all women) yesterday. We started out by discussing London's Tower Bridge (pictured on one of the posters), and I tried to explain how it was not London bridge, and how London bridge is quite drab looking, and how the previous London Bridge is currently in Arizona. Then they naturally wanted to know why "London Bridge is falling down." I had a quick pop into Wikipedia to verify what I thought I knew... anyway, things progress like this, and eventually we are onto America. Then eating. Then beef, which is thought to be to Americans what Kimchi is to Koreans.

"American's eat hamburgers every day?" asks one of the ladies.

"Not really. And no, not generally for breakfast."

They then go on to explain to me how American beef is diseased. All of it. This is why Korean beef is expensive and American beef is cheap. Koreans tried to get the government to stop importing it a while back with massive protests, but to no avail. Luckily, the Korean people know enough to stay away.

"Hm..." I said. "I don't think all American beef is diseased, actually."

"But you will get sick if you eat it," they insist.

"Hm..."

Eventually I figured out that this "disease" they were talking about was Mad Cow. My thought was that perhaps not all American beef was infected, as that would mean most if not all of the US population would have already been eradicated, but this theory did not fly with the Koreans. In all fairness I do remember when nobody in Minnesota would touch beef due to the Mad Cow scare, even though to date only 3 BSE cases have ever been identified in the United States (as opposed to say 183,841 in the UK).

That about sums up my week.

Korean digestive theories

Yeah... last Friday one of my co-teachers informed me very knowingly that drinking water is bad for you, because it fills up your stomach and weakens your digestive muscles. (Apparently the water hidden in soup and tea is fine.) But I'm surprised you hadn't run into the whole Mad Cow thing before: Korean middle schoolers (well, at least first-years) take it as an article of faith that American beef will kill them. Possibly the only sane thing Lee Myung-bak's done so far in his time as President was to resume American beef imports, yet when he did so, there was a massive protest in Seoul by all the Koreans convinced that he was inviting disease into the nation. (I think that this is what your co-teachers were trying to tell you about; it was still very much on the popular mind when I arrived. Supposedly "the damages caused by protesters to the businesses around the demonstration reached about 3,751,300,000,000 won," or $3 billion, which resulted in a flagging of public support for the protesters.)


Ode to a Chalkboard, Erased

O! That I had seen
Your didactic renderings:
Giraffes all ablaze.


I want one of those haircuts!

I think I want to try the hair salon when we're in Korea.

I've been working on my intercultural training, and I'm reminded by your experience that one of the competencies for intercultural adaptation is tolerance for uncertainty / ambiguity, which you seem to have plenty of (both the ambiguity, and the tolerance for it). Apparently this approach to starting new school years is typical for Korea? Sounds like a M.E. style of doing things. :-)

Keep us posted...


Ahh, Jordan, this post made

Ahh, Jordan, this post made me laugh! And I really needed a laugh today. I think we need to see a picture of your fancy new haircut. Keep writing - it's really entertaining. Give Marisa a kiss for me - I miss her so much.


Your argument that most of

Your argument that most of the population in the USA would be eradicated due to Mad Cow disease didn't fly because the media twisted some Korean scientific studies to announce that Koreans have a gene that makes them extra vulnerable to the disease. There were some ridiculous stories in the news that US beef would be used in the public schools resulting in the death of masses of middle school students. Emphasize that Korean Americans eat US beef and are fine if you decide to continue the debate.

My conspiracy theory driven mind believes that this is mostly the work of the intelligence agents of the Dear Leader in the North, in an effort to decrease public support for the new Korean president who cut off the large flow of unconditional aid to the North.


I agree with your mom. We

I agree with your mom. We need to see pictures of your haircut AND Marisa's pigtails.


Nice.

@Jed: I love the Haiku!


Jed's ode

Jed, you have a gift.

And I agree, I wish Jordan had taken a picture of the apocalyptic blackboard scene.


Heh.

I wrote a post that said, "nice one, Jed!" but then I didn't post it 'cause thought it would look silly. Anyway... nice one, Jed. And I agree with the sentiment, too.

My fingers itching,
Brain beating "5-7-5":
I must write haiku.


oh, joy

So, I'm reading this in the library, and laughing OUT LOUD. Not something that happens often. And I guess it's good it's not the Bodleian I'm laughing in, or I'd probably be kicked out (Kohleun and I decided, that since we're seniors, and work in the ARC [which is now upstairs in the library], none of the rules really apply anymore :).
Love you.